At Tuesday’s Saint Laurent males’s present in Paris, a handful of items on the runway had lengthy been designed and completed. They had been plucked instantly from YSL inventive director Anthony Vaccarello’s most up-to-date womenswear collection, like an inky leather-based trench coat which closed that girls’s outing in September. Final night time, a mannequin wore it along with his personal model of her draped hood. “I actually wish to put the person and lady on the identical degree,” Vaccarello mentioned backstage, about ten minutes earlier than showtime. “I do not wish to make them completely different…there’s an evolution [here] into a brand new assortment, however I might like to start out with what he may have worn from the girl final season, and the way he can reinterpret that in his personal approach.”
The garments had been offered with the beautiful cinematic flourish that’s quickly changing into a Vaccarello signature. “After I consider doing the gathering, I all the time consider that man or that lady in a movie,” Vaccarello mentioned. “It is type of a fantasy I have to have to start out the gathering.”
This season, Vaccarello’s set was the Bourse de Commerce, a former commodities buying and selling ground, which after a painstaking Tadao Ando renovation now homes the artwork assortment of Kering majordomo François-Henri Pinault. Simply over 100 friends—a very intimate scale for a model recognized for extra—had been organized on what appeared just like the world’s longest De Sede Snake couch round a round runway in Ando’s poured-concrete core.
When his solid emerged, it turned clear that this manufacturing can be a darkish, sensual drama. Costumed in Stygian floor-grazing overcoats with jutting shoulders and show-stopping night put on—an exaggerated Le Smoking tuxedo jacket over exact trousers, a slinky shirt with a cagoule hood, a knee-length, tunic-like sequined turtleneck knit—these characters had been mysterious and ineffably cool. Lots of these seems to be that didn’t raid the ladies’s assortment wholesale closely echoed it, like these lengthy knits, which for males are barely shorter and thicker and styled over trousers. “I feel it was extra fashionable for a man to decorate like that,” Vaccarello mentioned. As designers throughout the luxurious spectrum try to barter the shifting terrain of clothes and gender with blended outcomes, Vaccarello’s shared wardrobe idea is a refreshing and actual strategy: alternate stylish concepts between classes till either side of the shop look equally attractive. When a journalist requested if he imagines the Saint Laurent man and lady as pals or lovers, Vaccarello has a completely fashionable reply: “They do no matter they need.”
Vaccarello is clearly on the most assured second of his profession. “For me, menswear began final season, I’ve to say,” he added, referring to his breakthrough Spring-Summer season 2023 assortment unveiled in Marrakech. Earlier than, he mentioned, he made too many compromises, and put his man—a rock star, not a number one man—too carefully in dialog with the second. There was no sense of compromise on the round runway from this auteur: the palette was restricted to black, white, and brown, however principally black, to focus the attention on the balanced silhouettes. By my depend, it’s Vaccarello’s smallest assortment, at 47 seems to be. (A earlier males’s runway assortment pushed 70.) “I feel an increasing number of I’m enhancing. Possibly I will find yourself with 10 seems to be,” he mentioned with fun. He credit the beginning of his son final 12 months with serving to him think about the essential issues in life, and let go of distractions. “That is why it is actually extra easy and one standpoint and one message,” he mentioned. “I feel it is him.”